E6K Engine Management System

E6K Maps

I looked at most of the EMS (Engine Management Systems) before purchasing the Haltech E6K. I found the Haltech to be the best bang for the buck and it had all the features that I needed for what I wanted the Ricemobile® to be capable of. I looked at Wolf 3D Electromotive Tec 2, MoTeC, Apex Power-FC and the PMC. All in all, the MoTeC was by far the best, and the Apex Power-FC was the most restrictive.

After getting the box in the mail I thought I had bought something that I could not install. There were a lot of wires and a 150-page manual. After reading threw the manual and looking at each part of the system that needed to be install, I realized it is not all that bad. If you can install an alarm with power window and remote start the Haltech is easy.

There are about 20 wire connections that need to be made. I left my main engine wiring harness in and wired the E6K to the wires going into the stock ECU harnesses. With those simple connections made it was on to pull some wires threw into the engine compartment. There are three sets of wires that needed to be in the engine bay. Three wires for the MAP sensor, two wires for the coolant sensor, and two wires for the air temperature sensor.

Once the wires are in the engine bay you need to mount the MAP sensor. This can be mounted were the stock Mazda one was since you don't need that one anymore. As long as it is mounted above the top of the lower intake manifold you are fine. The idea is to keep the fuel from being siphoned into the sensor.

Then you need to tap and install the air temp sensor. You have a couple of choices for this. You can mount it in the stock location like I did. Drill and tap a new hole for it and keep the stock sensor so you can go back to stock easily. Or just use the stock sensor (which isn't all that bad, just an old sensor).

The next sensor is the coolant sensor. I installed mine on the back of the water pump, where the Mazda thermo sensor was. That sensor already had a hole big enough for me to just stick my tap in and start tapping, instead of trying to fit a drill in there with the water pump on. The hole that I used is the lower of the two sensors and took about 30 minutes to tap due to its location. Also possible to use the stock sensor (which isn't all that bad, just an old sensor).

The two major connections that need to be made that don't connect to the ECU harnesses are for the power and ground. Run the ground to the battery or a good chassis location. The positive wire should go straight to the battery.

There are many options to connect the fuel pump. I connected one of Haltech's fuel pump wires to constant power and the other one to the white/red wire under the master cylinder. That wire goes straight to the fuel pump without any relays interfering. This also allows you to disconnect the factory fuel pump resistor (looks like a little heat sink). The Haltech has a relay that controls when the fuel pump gets power, so the fuel pump is not running all the time, so connecting to the batter is fine. If you do not do a direct connection like I did you will need to hook up both of the wires from the stock wiring harness (1K and 1T). One controls the fuel pump threw the fuel pump resistor (used in the stock system to drop the voltage to the fuel pump during light load conditions) and one that goes straight to the fuel pump.

All the folks that say there gauges don't work or the A/C, cruise control, power steering, sequential turbos, turbo timers and whatever other BS you can think of. All the gauges worked fine with only one wire that had to be hooked up additional to the E6K.

You can use the internal reluctors on the E6K along with the stock TPS, ignitors and coils.

The stock MAP, coolant and air temps sensors can also be used. Keep in mind that the stock MAP is only good up to 2 bar (~15psi), so if you want to run more boost you need the 3 bar (~30psi) sensor from Haltech. This means you only have to route three wires through the firewall for the Haltech install (or you can use the stock MAP wires for the Haltech MAP). All the other connections can be made in the passenger kick panel using the stock coolant and air temp sensors.

The E6K has some additional outputs to control extra goodies. You can control when the radiator fans turn on and off. There are other features like, sequential turbo control, IC fan, shift light, turbo timer, NOS controls, boost control, and for those of you crazy guys out there anti-lag. It also has a flat shift and a 2-step ignition available for you drag racers.

I am running the Haltech boost controller and it works the same as the AVC-R just not all the fancy lights. The thing that the Haltech controller lacks is the fuzzy logic and a gear adjustment for boost. Since your load is increased in higher gears you are more likely to build more boost. This means you hit the boost cut (not fuel or ignition cut) on the Haltech boost controller in 5th gear. I plan to go back to the AVC-R in the future, but until then, the Haltech controller is good. If you never went to a stand-alone boost controller before upgrading to the Haltech you can utilize this feature in the Haltech and save some money.

All of the solenoids under the intake manifold can be removed if you are running non-seq or a single turbo and no emissions equipment. The only thing that needs to be done to do this is to run a hose from the FPR to the nipple on the lower intake manifold. This will allow you to eliminate the solenoid that is closest to the firewall (orange harness).

If you are planning on running your car sequential you will need to need to keep are the turbo control solenoid, charge control solenoid, and charge relief solenoid. If you count the solenoids from the firewall forward these are the fifth, sixth and eighth solenoids. You will also need to connect a 12VDC relay (found at your local car audio shop)to one of the PWM outputs and switch that output to 'Dual Intake Valve' This allows you to setup when you want the second turbo comes on and turns off. The relay should be hooked up with pin 30 connected to constant power (12V+ from the battery), pin 85 to a ground, pin 87 to the charge control solenoid (wire 4T [Blue/Black]), pin 87a to the turbo control solenoid (wire 4R [Yellow/Blue]) and the charge relief solenoid (wire 4S [Pink]). The 86 pin is connected to the PWM output. You will need to go under the upper intake manifold and grab the Black/White wires coming off the stock solenoids that you are keeping and ground that/those wires. If you do not do this the sequential system will not work. If someone knows of a way to do this connection inside the car without disrupting the main EGI relay I would like to know.

There have been some problems with consistent wire colors on the Haltech harness in the USA. There are also differences in the wire colors of the stock RX-7 harness, but the pin numbers are correct. I hope to get a wiring diagram up for the different years. Until then just ensure the pin call out is the same and email me if you have a problem.

Tuning hints and other information

A little advice on some situations I have had with my car. If you car takes a long time to start compared to the factory ECU during cold winters you can enrich you coolant correction map threw all levels below 70F. This helped my car immensely for starting. Since your car runs no cooler than 150F when actual driving this will not effect the car except under starting conditions and part of the warm-up. I also added fuel to the 0RPM range since the Haltech pulls from that map during starting.

Remember to keep the gap between the primary and secondary fuel injectors the same level all the way threw the RPM range. Otherwise you will have a stumble when you get on boost. The change over on my maps is setup to happen at around 1psi. The way to tell were it is happening is by looking at the bars, the primary injectors are shaded and when the primary and secondary injectors are on, they are just blank bars.

I have leaned out a lot of the extreme vacuum areas (>22psi) since they are not normally scene during cruising and only during shifting. Since doing this I don't have any unburned fuel igniting in the exhaust causing fireballs. Flamage is an attention getter at the drag strip, but that is not what I am going for. Be careful not to lean these sections out too much. If you do, then under light cruising throttle you will have surging due to the lack of fuel.

Remember that the Haltech does not control the MOP (Metering Oil Pump), nor are there plans to in the future. I just throw a few bottles (16oz) bottles of two stroke oil in my car and use them at fill up. One bottle on one fill up (15 gallons) works out to be about 100:1.

All the information is related to my generation (1993-1996) RX-7. If you have a 1986-1991 RX-7 you will want to go to HITman's website for install information and maps.

If you have any questions, please email me or ICQ me. I update the page whenever someone emails me because something is not clear. I try to have all the basic info on here to get your car going, but if I don't have the answer there are a couple hundred of us Haltech owners on Yahoo Groups that might be able to help.

If you are looking to buy a Haltech or other performance parts for your rotary vehicle go to K2RD.

Here is an email I received from Josh Stanely regarding the A/C in his car:

Since I've installed my haltech E6K, Ive been having some trouble setting up the AC. I finally had some time this weekend to troubleshoot it and here's what I've found. If anyone else has been saving AC issues with the haltech this may help. First, the AC works independently of the ECU. The only reason it runs through the ECU is because the ECU disables it at WOT to give you a few
extra horses to pull out of a jam or whatever situation you may be in on the road. The simplest way to get your AC working properly and independent of the ECU is to jumper the violet wire (1E) to the
yellow/black wire (1L) at the yellow connector that used to go into the stock ECU. The AC will work perfectly and you will even keep the thermosensor operational so you don't have to manually turn the AC off when it freezes up. The only problem with this setup is that the AC will no longer disengage when the accelerator goes to WOT. If this doesn't bother you then you are finished. :) If you want the ECU (E6K) to disengage the AC when the car is under WOT or when the engine reaches a certain RPM then you will need to use one of your PWM outputs. The first thing you will need to do is jumper 1E and 1L as mentioned above. Then you will need to remove your glove box. This can probably be done without removing the glove box but it may be a little more difficult to reach the connector and the glove box comes out with only two screws. With the glove box off, there will be a white connector with 4 wires going in (violet, violet/pink, white, and blue/yellow. On the other side of the plug there will be a white jumper wire jumping the blue/yellow and white wires together. Cut or remove this jumper wire. Take one of your PWM outputs and connect it to the white wire going into the connector. Now setup your PWM to "AC" and setup when you want the AC to disengage. This will let your AC operate with an operational thermosensor thus eliminating the need to manually
cycle your AC to prevent it from freezing up. The only downfall I see to wiring the AC this way is that when you shut the blower fans off, you will have to also shut off the AC button or the AC clutch will remain engaged. The stock setup uses the same ground to turn on the blower fans and the AC. In order to be able to disengage the AC clutch without disengaging the blower fans too, there needs to be two separate grounds controlling each device. One for the AC and the other for the blower fans. By hooking up your PWM to the AC, you are creating a separate ground to the AC compressor relay. This will now allow you to disengage the AC clutch at WOT.

I hope this helps all the do it yourselfers out there who are installing these haltechs by yourselves. I will be posting this "how to" on my website soon. I hope it helps. I know it's cleared a lot up for me.

Josh Stanley

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