I looked at
most of the EMS (Engine Management Systems) before purchasing the
Haltech E6K. I found the Haltech to be the best bang for the buck
and it had all the features that I needed for what I wanted the
Ricemobile® to be capable of. I looked at Wolf 3D Electromotive
Tec 2, MoTeC, Apex Power-FC and the PMC. All in all, the MoTeC was
by far the best, and the Apex Power-FC was the most restrictive.
the box in the mail I thought I had bought something that I could
not install. There were a lot of wires and a 150-page manual. After
reading threw the manual and looking at each part of the system
that needed to be install, I realized it is not all that bad. If
you can install an alarm with power window and remote start the
Haltech is easy.
There are about 20 wire connections that need to be made. I left
my main engine wiring harness in and wired the E6K to the wires
going into the stock ECU harnesses. With those simple connections
made it was on to pull some wires threw into the engine compartment.
There are three sets of wires that needed to be in the engine bay.
Three wires for the MAP sensor, two wires for the coolant sensor,
and two wires for the air temperature sensor.
Once the wires
are in the engine bay you need to mount the MAP sensor. This can
be mounted were the stock Mazda one was since you don't need that
one anymore. As long as it is mounted above the top of the lower
intake manifold you are fine. The idea is to keep the fuel from
being siphoned into the sensor.
Then you need to tap and install the air temp sensor. You have a
couple of choices for this. You can mount it in the stock location
like I did. Drill and tap a new hole for it and keep the stock sensor
so you can go back to stock easily. Or just use the stock sensor
(which isn't all that bad, just an old sensor).
The next sensor
is the coolant sensor. I installed mine on the back of the water
pump, where the Mazda thermo sensor was. That sensor already had
a hole big enough for me to just stick my tap in and start tapping,
instead of trying to fit a drill in there with the water pump on.
The hole that I used is the lower of the two sensors and took about
30 minutes to tap due to its location. Also possible to use the
stock sensor (which isn't all that bad, just an old sensor).
The two major
connections that need to be made that don't connect to the ECU harnesses
are for the power and ground. Run the ground to the battery or a
good chassis location. The positive wire should go straight to the
There are many
options to connect the fuel pump. I connected one of Haltech's fuel
pump wires to constant power and the other one to the white/red
wire under the master cylinder. That wire goes straight to the fuel
pump without any relays interfering. This also allows you to disconnect
the factory fuel pump resistor (looks like a little heat sink).
The Haltech has a relay that controls when the fuel pump gets power,
so the fuel pump is not running all the time, so connecting to the
batter is fine. If you do not do a direct connection like I did
you will need to hook up both of the wires from the stock wiring
harness (1K and 1T). One controls the fuel pump threw the fuel pump
resistor (used in the stock system to drop the voltage to the fuel
pump during light load conditions) and one that goes straight to
the fuel pump.
All the folks
that say there gauges don't work or the A/C, cruise control, power
steering, sequential turbos, turbo timers and whatever other BS
you can think of. All the gauges worked fine with only one wire
that had to be hooked up additional to the E6K.
You can use
the internal reluctors on the E6K along with the stock TPS, ignitors
The stock MAP,
coolant and air temps sensors can also be used. Keep in mind that
the stock MAP is only good up to 2 bar (~15psi), so if you want
to run more boost you need the 3 bar (~30psi) sensor from Haltech.
This means you only have to route three wires through the firewall
for the Haltech install (or you can use the stock MAP wires for
the Haltech MAP). All the other connections can be made in the passenger
kick panel using the stock coolant and air temp sensors.
The E6K has
some additional outputs to control extra goodies. You can control
when the radiator fans turn on and off. There are other features
like, sequential turbo control, IC fan, shift light, turbo timer,
NOS controls, boost control, and for those of you crazy guys out
there anti-lag. It also has a flat shift and a 2-step ignition available
for you drag racers.
I am running
the Haltech boost controller and it works the same as the AVC-R
just not all the fancy lights. The thing that the Haltech controller
lacks is the fuzzy logic and a gear adjustment for boost. Since
your load is increased in higher gears you are more likely to build
more boost. This means you hit the boost cut (not fuel or ignition
cut) on the Haltech boost controller in 5th gear. I plan to go back
to the AVC-R in the future, but until then, the Haltech controller
is good. If you never went to a stand-alone boost controller before
upgrading to the Haltech you can utilize this feature in the Haltech
and save some money.
All of the
solenoids under the intake manifold can be removed if you are running
non-seq or a single turbo and no emissions equipment. The only thing
that needs to be done to do this is to run a hose from the FPR to
the nipple on the lower intake manifold. This will allow you to
eliminate the solenoid that is closest to the firewall (orange harness).
If you are
planning on running your car sequential you will need to need to
keep are the turbo control solenoid, charge control solenoid, and
charge relief solenoid. If you count the solenoids from the firewall
forward these are the fifth, sixth and eighth solenoids. You will
also need to connect a 12VDC relay (found at your local car audio
shop)to one of the PWM outputs and switch that output to 'Dual Intake
Valve' This allows you to setup when you want the second turbo comes
on and turns off. The relay should be hooked up with pin 30 connected
to constant power (12V+ from the battery), pin 85 to a ground, pin
87 to the charge control solenoid (wire 4T [Blue/Black]), pin 87a
to the turbo control solenoid (wire 4R [Yellow/Blue]) and the charge
relief solenoid (wire 4S [Pink]). The 86 pin is connected to the
PWM output. You will need to go under the upper intake manifold
and grab the Black/White wires coming off the stock solenoids that
you are keeping and ground that/those wires. If you do not do this
the sequential system will not work. If someone knows of a way to
do this connection inside the car without disrupting the main EGI
relay I would like to know.
been some problems with consistent wire colors on the Haltech harness
in the USA. There are also differences in the wire colors of the
stock RX-7 harness, but the pin numbers are correct. I hope to get
a wiring diagram up for the different years. Until then just ensure
the pin call out is the same and email me if you have a problem.
and other information
A little advice
on some situations I have had with my car. If you car takes a long
time to start compared to the factory ECU during cold winters you
can enrich you coolant correction map threw all levels below 70F.
This helped my car immensely for starting. Since your car runs no
cooler than 150F when actual driving this will not effect the car
except under starting conditions and part of the warm-up. I also
added fuel to the 0RPM range since the Haltech pulls from that map
keep the gap between the primary and secondary fuel injectors the
same level all the way threw the RPM range. Otherwise you will have
a stumble when you get on boost. The change over on my maps is setup
to happen at around 1psi. The way to tell were it is happening is
by looking at the bars, the primary injectors are shaded and when
the primary and secondary injectors are on, they are just blank
I have leaned
out a lot of the extreme vacuum areas (>22psi) since they are
not normally scene during cruising and only during shifting. Since
doing this I don't have any unburned fuel igniting in the exhaust
causing fireballs. Flamage is an attention getter at the drag strip,
but that is not what I am going for. Be careful not to lean these
sections out too much. If you do, then under light cruising throttle
you will have surging due to the lack of fuel.
the Haltech does not control the MOP (Metering Oil Pump), nor are
there plans to in the future. I just throw a few bottles (16oz)
bottles of two stroke oil in my car and use them at fill up. One
bottle on one fill up (15 gallons) works out to be about 100:1.
All the information
is related to my generation (1993-1996) RX-7. If you have a 1986-1991
RX-7 you will want to go to HITman's
website for install information and maps.
If you have
any questions, please
email me or ICQ me. I update the page whenever someone
emails me because something is not clear. I try to have all the
basic info on here to get your car going, but if I don't have the
answer there are a couple hundred of us Haltech owners on Yahoo
Groups that might be able to help.
are looking to buy a Haltech or other performance parts for
your rotary vehicle go to K2RD.
Here is an
email I received from Josh Stanely regarding the A/C in his car:
installed my haltech E6K, Ive been having some trouble setting up
the AC. I finally had some time this weekend to troubleshoot it
and here's what I've found. If anyone else has been saving AC issues
with the haltech this may help. First, the AC works independently
of the ECU. The only reason it runs through the ECU is because the
ECU disables it at WOT to give you a few
extra horses to pull out of a jam or whatever situation you may
be in on the road. The simplest way to get your AC working properly
and independent of the ECU is to jumper the violet wire (1E) to
yellow/black wire (1L) at the yellow connector that used to go into
the stock ECU. The AC will work perfectly and you will even keep
the thermosensor operational so you don't have to manually turn
the AC off when it freezes up. The only problem with this setup
is that the AC will no longer disengage when the accelerator goes
to WOT. If this doesn't bother you then you are finished. :) If
you want the ECU (E6K) to disengage the AC when the car is under
WOT or when the engine reaches a certain RPM then you will need
to use one of your PWM outputs. The first thing you will need to
do is jumper 1E and 1L as mentioned above. Then you will need to
remove your glove box. This can probably be done without removing
the glove box but it may be a little more difficult to reach the
connector and the glove box comes out with only two screws. With
the glove box off, there will be a white connector with 4 wires
going in (violet, violet/pink, white, and blue/yellow. On the other
side of the plug there will be a white jumper wire jumping the blue/yellow
and white wires together. Cut or remove this jumper wire. Take one
of your PWM outputs and connect it to the white wire going into
the connector. Now setup your PWM to "AC" and setup when
you want the AC to disengage. This will let your AC operate with
an operational thermosensor thus eliminating the need to manually
cycle your AC to prevent it from freezing up. The only downfall
I see to wiring the AC this way is that when you shut the blower
fans off, you will have to also shut off the AC button or the AC
clutch will remain engaged. The stock setup uses the same ground
to turn on the blower fans and the AC. In order to be able to disengage
the AC clutch without disengaging the blower fans too, there needs
to be two separate grounds controlling each device. One for the
AC and the other for the blower fans. By hooking up your PWM to
the AC, you are creating a separate ground to the AC compressor
relay. This will now allow you to disengage the AC clutch at WOT.
I hope this
helps all the do it yourselfers out there who are installing these
haltechs by yourselves. I will be posting this "how to"
on my website soon. I hope it helps. I know it's cleared a lot up